A Unique Experience, Durban, South Africa
Zulu people refer to themselves as 'the people of the heavens' and they are the largest ethnic group of South Africa.
March 28, 2014
Durban, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
Leaving Durban after breakfast, we headed straight into the rolling hills of the Isithumba Valley deep in “The Valley of 1000 Hills.” It is situated 30 km's from Durban. It was named after the rolling hills that extend as far as the eye can see. It is home to unspoiled nature and cultural attractions and it is an absolute must-do. The views of the valley are superb.
I had arranged this tour with Sheldon Wells of Country Cruising Tours. We wanted a real cultural experience and not just a gawk and take pictures experience. Isithumba, was the geographic area where people of the Zulu Debe clan had made their homes for over 200 years. Today they opened their hearts and homes to us, inviting us in to witness a way of life that hasn't changed much over the years.
“Where are we going? “ I asked Jeffrey, our guide in Isithumba. We emerged from a little end of the trail and found ourselves in front of “out houses.”
There were cattle, goats, chicken, and vegetable gardens filling the property ahead of us. There were women fashioning cakes, cooking. Out on the field, we could see children playing in the yard. We passed several roundhouses and the healer, known as a Sangoma, greeted us, and welcomed us into his thatched- roof hut. He was wearing a leopard skin t-shirt, and had several gold and silver chain bracelets on each wrist. It is a belief in the Zulu culture that corners can keep the evil spirits and so it is important to have round houses instead. From the ceiling hung several wooden crosses, and also on the makeshift altar which was covered with a red and purple cloth stitched with small crosses. Besides the altar hung several outfits in various bright colors which is worn by the Sangoma during healing sessions.
A raw hide from a leopard skin hung next to what looked like a lion's tail fashioned into a witch doctors wand. Here, our guide Jeffrey explained the various artifacts, beliefs, and rituals, giving us an insight into the fascinating Zulu culture. This is the closest we could get to the the real Zulu, and see their traditional lifestyle. Our guide, explained that they hope the visitors will come to experience, a life close to the land.
We asked a few questions and he posed for some photographs with us before we said goodbye. Finally a visit to the chief was in order, but we found out that he had just left, and so we met his second wife. She was wearing a bright redhead dress with matching red scarf around her shoulders. Her face was beaming as she invited us inside the round hut where she said she had just started cooking. There was just one window, and in the middle of the hut was a cooking pot on a wood stove. Inside, the smoke filled the whole hut, and all of us rushed to get out before the smoke got into our eyes.
In the Zulu culture, marriage is for life. The man has to save money to buy seven to eleven cattle, and offer it as a dowry for the bride. A man can get another wife only if the first wife is barren. In the Zulu village, everyday, the men and women create beautiful craft work. Traditionally the bead-work was created to convey messages in their design and the use of colors. The colors and their meaning are:
white- love,
blue-loyalty
yellow-wealth
green- love-sickness or jealousy
pink-poverty
red- tears and desire, doubt
black-mourning, loneliness and disappointment
orange-perseverance, spirit of wisdom and playfulness
Afterwards , our next stop was at Hillbilly Cafe for a South African lunch. We indulged in some South African hospitality, and some “bunny chow” washed down with the local beer. On the drive to Phe Zulu Cultural Village, one guy mused. “ What really strikes me is the poverty, and yet everybody seemed neat and clean, especially the school children.”
”Our lunch was followed by a visit to the reptile park. Not being amused by snakes and crocodiles, I took some pictures and walked along the crocodile pens quickly. Ninety five-year -old Ramses and his wife Cleopatra basked in the afternoon sun. His huge mouth was open and his gleaming fangs shone brightly. For a few moments we watched his enormous body, nearly 19 feet long. Cleopatra his wife, emerged from the water with her wicked yellow green eyes gleaming madness and her long tail moving slowly and gracefully. In one snake pit, a cobra sprang among the dried branches. Its great eyes fixed upon our shadows on the glass pane. Each time Bert moved with his yellow checkered shirt, the viper crouched its way nearer and then struck with menacing speed spitting his venom on the glass.
The next hour was spent watching an afternoon show of Zulu dancing at the Phe Zulu Cultural Village. The Zulu people have long had the reputation for being unbelievably musical, and their music has filled the valleys for centuries. A man wearing leopard skin fabric on his chest, with many ornaments on his arms and legs, danced with pride and joy. Two women who were the village soothsayers, wore heavy brass anklets, while the rest all wore colorful beaded anklets with a matching beaded waist garland. Around the necks of the male dancers were huge black and white beaded necklaces. On their left arms they carried oval animal skin shields, while on their right hands, they carried a white fur like feather duster.
Zebra grazing along the way to Phe Zulu Cultural Village.
For the next hour, they beat their drums to chants matched with frenetic energy. Their joyous, hectic thump, thump, reverberated as they danced in wild and savage ways to the music of their drums. Singing,dancing, swaying, accompanied by drums, and and enhanced by shrill ululations, is a ceremony unique to the Zulu tribe. It was a very snappy round of high kicks, and low jumps, coupled with thump, thump,thump, foot on the ground dance moves that required different body parts to move in different directions simultaneously.
Watching them was as good as you can get when it comes to African rhythm. Everything is all about the rhythm. And the beat goes on. With or without the alcohol and or a mask, this is the time and place to let loose and do it. It was a lively and harmonious experience where one can throw oneself into the moment and join the African party spirit.
Overall, the Zulu dancing was very impressive with the dancers in their traditional garb, showing off their skills with grace, agility and humor. They put on a fabulous show and it was truly unforgettable.
Comment
It's so beautiful! From Bebe, on Mar 30, 2014 at 12:38 p.m