Fascinating Colombo, Sri Lanka
Inside Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara, is a Buddhist temple built in the 5th century.
March 15, 2014
Colombo, Sri Lanka
Standing on the deck of the ship, we see Colombo spread before us. It is a fascinating blend of the old and the new, with colonial building sand lively bazaars juxtaposed with commercial high-rise buildings and hotels. It is the largest city in Sri Lanka. It is tropical, noisy, frenetic and crowded.
We met our guide for our full day City tour at the Grand Oriental Hotel. She said that it is easy to find your way around Colombo. We started the tour by driving through the North, the country's business center, also known as the Fort district, because it was used to protect trading resources during the Dutch and Portuguese colonial times. It has department stores, book shops, airline offices and is the site of the Central Bank, with the World Trade Center's twin towers. There are also ample sights such as the clock tower, a former lighthouse,the president's residence (known by incorrigible traditionalists, as Queen's House), and a cluster of colonial buildings which lent the district an aura of a bygone Empire.
Our first stop was the sprawling Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara buddhist temple. It is one of the most important Buddhist temples in Colombo. Here, we found hundreds of Buddha statues, revered relics, and examples of Asian architectural design. It is also one of the oldest temples in Colombo and has one of the oldest ficus trees which is more than 2,000 years-old, and is now considered a holy tree.
At the outset, we were asked to take off our shoes at the entrance. At the corner of my eye I saw a monk in his saffron robe, sitting under a mango tree. In another corner, women in white dresses were kneeling on the ground while they were uttering silent prayers. In just a few meters we were now in front of the holy ficus tree which was cordoned off by a golden colored fence decorated with bright bunting. Below it were thousands of fragrant flowers in bright colors laying side by side, in what looked like an altar. Men and women carrying vivid jar offerings and flowers, were parading around the ficus tree. They were all silently chanting and praying. A few women were lighting incense sticks making the place pulsate with color and smell. The colors, odors, and the crowd gave me an overwhelming feeling. We continued to wander past colors of saffron clothed monks, and locals of all ages. The intense colors,smell, and presented us with an overload of the senses.
Beside the holy ficus tree was a huge temple decorated with elephant carvings on its outside walls. We lined up to go inside where we were amazed by the vivid paintings and intricate hand carvings. The ceilings were about twenty five feet high and not even an inch was left unpainted. A huge Buddha laying on its side could be seen in one of the rooms. Next to it, was an altar where people lay their flower offerings, and money as donations. To the right of the temple is an enormously large white stuppa (white dome), with a red, yellow and blue flag. It was flanked by several other Buddha temples. There was also a huge fountain surrounded by mango and other tropical trees.
When you think of Sri Lanka, one of the first things that might come to mind is the iconic tuktuk, a three-wheeled, motorized rickshaw.
In the afternoon, we took a walk at Galle Face Green, a seafront expanse of green grass graced by cricket games, kite fliers and trysting lovers. Cinnamon Gardens, further south, is Colombo's most fashionable neighborhood, with elegant mansions, tree-lined streets and the city's largest park where one can see a replica of the White House. East of the fort is the pungent Pettah bazaar district. Once inside the market, the colors, odors and the crowd put me in the oriental mood. It was a bustling scene. You can find just about anything from shoes, luggage, saris, DVD's, copy watches, electronics, clothing,and what appeared to be tin junk.
Meanwhile, trucks, cars and motorbikes sped by, sometimes inches away from someone else' thigh. With so many reckless passing’s and near misses, it was a wonder nobody seemed to get scared or offended. No one seemed to holler or salute with a finger! The flow of traffic just kept moving on.
Back on the pier, we walked through, and marveled at the tremendous displays of good leather, silver, brass, and so many colorful saris. Don't buy, just look, don't buy, was my mantra for the day as I wound past the colorful saris and bangles at the overstuffed stalls. Don't stop, keep moving, was another mantra, until I broke down and bought a few batik blouses. I left the market with a bunch of items for some geographically challenged people that we know.
From Cinnamon trees, to gemstones, to weavers, to a variety of spices, Colombo's allure continued to fascinate me. I came to Colombo to discover this and I didn't expect to find it so brilliantly displayed. I felt almost a spiritual connection with all the color and flavor, even its pace.
“Are you happy we stopped here?” I asked my husband.
“Yes, I used to fly here,” he replied sounding nostalgic for the times when he used to fly as a Captain with Singapore Airlines, at a moment when his life stretches largely behind him.
This tour surely brought back memories of his trips before. As for me, Colombo is another world unto itself. It has great wealth coexisting with the poverty of the masses. But mostly, I was moved by the hospitality and friendliness of the people. No matter how difficult life is, they appear remarkably happy and rich in spirit. For 25 years the country has been besieged by the strife of civil war. And in 2004, Sri Lanka was ravaged by a devastating tsunami. Surely, this conflict ravaged country needs help.
Before we left, I made a pact with myself to do more to help others. I sent a prayer with the blowing breeze, a prayer that is good for all mankind.
Who needs spices from Colombo? We've already got a lot! Tourism, yes. Though it may sound corny, knowing the benefits will be enormous, I vowed to comeback!
Comments
Another country we have not visited. Your positiveness and compassion are showing through your writing, God bless you and Bert on this great voyage! From Kim L., on Mar 23, 2014 at 08:32 p.m