February 19, 2014

Alotau, Papua New Guinea

At the dock the volunteer guide slid open the door to the van that would ferry us to the market, and the town center. The driver looked at us expectantly. Then the volunteer guide spoke,

“ Good morning, welcome to Alotua!”

We replied, “Good morning,.”

Alotua is a place welcoming cruise passengers for the first time. Most tour guides and volunteers were students. But for the most part, they really prepared for our arrival. The people were very friendly and accommodating. When we arrived at the market ( a few feet away from the Milne Bay WW II Memorial), several dozen people were already gathered and waiting for us.

There was a big thatched roof hut, where we could see a middle aged man and woman with children, sitting on the ground, with their handicrafts also laid out neatly on the ground. These were part of the informal gatherings for our arrival. The challenge was to find the most striking handicraft at a reasonable price. Time after time, we spent a lot of time browsing baskets, wooden canes, bags, shell necklaces and woodcarvings of different size and shapes. I saw an elegant hand carved cane with mother of pearl inlay. It was hard to decide which one to buy.

At the corner of the thatched roof, an older man sat quietly but smiled as I approached. He picked-up two wooden rings with mother of pearl inlay. Without a word, he raised his hands and offered the rings to me. The pressure to buy the rings, was intense. There was something about those dark wrinkled hands and somber eyes that were compelling! I asked how much they were, paid him and walked away. In passing between the various items for sale, I took some photographs of the kids, men and women. People smiled and most of them wanted their pictures taken regardless of their red betel nut stained teeth. Others rushed around barking at anyone who missed hearing my request to take their photos and they asked them to pose or give their best smiles.

Many of the people were chewing betel nuts. It is their way of life. Some couldn't resist digging into their pockets for the plastic wrapped lime powder, and biting into the bitter green nuts with frenzied intensity. From the handicraft market we went to the local market. On the street, were throngs of more betel-nut chewing locals. Some were walking, some were seemingly comfortable just sitting or lying on the ground.

There was something exciting about seeing them, and they always waved and smiled at us. At the market, the fresh fruit and vegetables were a delight to see. The bananas were so big and I couldn't resist buying a bunch for a mere dollar. A few ladies were selling cooked food, while others were selling baskets and bags for everyday use. Apart from chewing betel nut, the locals carried a bag called Bilum which is a hand made bag using a process called looping, or knot-less netting, or crocheting.

We saw a lot of men with their Bilums hung on their foreheads while others wore it body cross style. Women used them for carrying whatever fruit and vegetables they bought at the market.

Back on the ship, I looked out once again at the town center. The wind was blowing so hard and there were so many undulating white caps on the water. Our Captain postponed our ship's departure until the wind died down and we were able to safely maneuver out of the port. The wind was blowing at 40 knots broadside to the ship, making it dangerous to move.

Alotau is like a land before times. For the most part we enjoyed the things we have in common with their people; such as openness and friendliness, rather than the differences. It is still untouched and very primitive in some ways. We hope it stays that way for a long time to come!!!!!

Comments

We didn't stop in P.N. from our last cruise together, remember? There were some problem. One source stated that due to the security for Prince Charles' later visit, but the insiders told us it was about the landing fee disagreement. The P.N. authority wanted $75.00/per person for all people on the ship. The HAL captain agreed with the fee but only for the passengers that get off the ship to explore the island. Well, our ship sailed on without stopping! This is a welcome blog to learn about the once-famous-on cannibalism country. See people with things that are in common rather than in difference, I like this philosophy, Charlotte. Thank you! From Kim L., on Mar 3, 2014 at 05:10 p.m

First Time Ever, Alotau, Papua New Guinea

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