How Fiji Captured My Heart
Although the indigenous Fijian people are usually classified as ethnically Melanesian, their social and political organization is closer to that of Polynesia.
February 5, 2014
Lautoka, Western Fiji
One of our port stops two years ago was Lautoka, Fiji. It was a clear day, sunny blue skies with puffy white clouds. It was at this port stop that I happened to see a local Fijian lady touting her small bus as the best way to see the countryside, especially if we were not in a rush, and it was a tour in itself, very casual and low-cost.
For US$25.00@person we spent the next five hours wandering around Lautoka. We passed by the sugar mills, the brewery, and then we were off to Nadi. We went shopping in Nadi and Bert even found a good drink, a ready mixed cola with their signature Bounty rum, for 30 cents each can.
We also went to the local market where there were numerous handicrafts; and I got my “cannibal fork”. Once back at the wharf, I noticed the same Fijian lady.
“Bula,” I greeted her. Strangely enough, after talking to her, what she told me struck a chord, and I was reminded of my own mother. She who was always positive; she who was never shy; she who had so many children, and always maintained her strong faith. I asked for her card, thanked her, and promised her that I would get in touch with her again.
Today, standing at the ship's rail, I shouted, “Bula Mama!”
Faces covered with black soot greeted us at the village.
I had e-mailed Fili, prior to our arrival in Lautoka, and she had organized a tour for us. We were going to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, an orchid garden conceived and built by the actor Raymond Burr. I honestly did not know of him, he was obviously before my time, but what mattered most for me was being able to connect to Fili. For me, it was not just a cultural hit-and -run, but rather a more personal relationship. Through various emails,we started to experience our similarities, rather than cultural differences.
At the gangway, her warmest smile and hug greeted me. Touring Lautoka this time, we went to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, proceeded to a primary school where we took pictures of kids with pearly white teeth and beautiful eyes and smiles. We also stopped at the Hindu Temple, and went to Nadi for shopping. Our last stop was at Sofitel Hotel for a view of the poolside and a nice walk on the beach. But in between these stops was a surprise visit to Fili, and Net's (Guide), village at Namaka, Nadi , for refreshments and authentic cultural welcoming and presentation.
Our bus was met by two burly guys, half of their faces covered with black soot. Except for the traditional grass skirts and a few ornaments on their arms and legs, their bodies gleamed against smooth brown skin. In their hands were huge clubs used for clubbing enemies.
Net, our guide,whispered,” Keep quiet now. We are entering our village and they are checking us if we are going to be allowed entry.”
As we approached, we saw an excited group in a makeshift stall. Women were standing at the entrance with fresh leaf and flower garlands to welcome us. A group of men were banging the wooden drums, and on the right side of the entrance was a huge hollow tree also used as a drum. One by one we received our leis and Net introduced us to his village and family members who were all living in the same village.
There are plenty of fresh and cheap fruit at Suva public market.
Once we were seated crossed legged on the woven banana leaf mats, the Sevusevu or Yaqona traditional ceremony started. Four men in traditional Bula (Grass)skirts and shirts with tie welcomed us, then after a short silence, a prayer was recited, followed by a singing of the choir in their Fijian language. We were all seated on the mats watching the village residents with amusement and curiosity. Next was the presentation of the Tabua (whale's tooth). It is Fiji's most sacred treasure and the most honorable official document. It is reserved and performed for high dignitaries or a person of ``chiefly status``.
During this sacred ceremony,they spoke the native Fijian language while we bowed our heads. Though we could not understand their spoken language, their gestures and facial expressions told us much. After the tabua, the five men in grass skirts brought in a wooden Bilo (huge bowl). They sat in front of us, and then the village chief entered with a kava plant, with it`s roots wrapped in an old newspaper. Our eyes were fixed in awe during the whole ceremony. When the chief handed the kava plant to the men in grass skirts, on of them holding a long bamboo pole containing (water), and poured the fresh water into the bowl. Two guys continued to hold the bowl while two men squeezed what looked like long coconut coir. Everything was done in a slow traditional way.
The kava drink was then made specially for Bert. Once done, the two men, with faces covered in black grease, came forward, kneeled down holding the coconut shell filled with fresh-brewed kava, they offered it to Bert. Speechlessly, Bert drank his kava. I was next and I drank it all in one long gulp with bottoms up and returned the honor by saying the Fijian greeting, “Bula!”
I also thanked the chief and the village people and Fili, of course for the welcome ceremony accorded our group, Bert and myself. It was a most honorable and most remarkable experience that one can imagine and we will forever remember.
Our solemn ceremony over, we watched the opening of the Lovo. For centuries, this was the method of cooking that was was used for cooking their enemies, during the time of cannibalism. This cooking method is now practiced to celebrate momentous occasions.
“Today, we don't cook you; but instead, we offer you food, “ Net said as he lead us to the ground where the Lovo was. One by one, the men in grass skirts proceeded to remove the hot stones on top of the lovo. Our camera's and eyes were fixed on what was supposed to come out. Slowly, carefully, they withdrew the hot stones and revealed chicken wrapped in banana leaves, taro as big as my thigh, sweet potatoes and taro leaves cooked in coconut milk. The men promptly offered us a taste each of the foods as they carefully took it out from the ground.
Meanwhile women wearing colorful long dresses came with trays of sweet pineapple, watermelon, guavas, and papayas. They also offered fresh coconuts for drinking and eating. Soon, the refreshments and entertainment were over. Everyone in the village sang Isa Lei IsaLei. This is Fiji's famous farewell song, sung only to the most precious guests. The words tell of sadness and gratitude, for friendship and cherished memories.
The whole village, old and young, sang and danced. They all wished us well, a safe journey, and bade us farewell with memorable smiles and dances. We arrived back at the wharf ahead of time. I gave Fili a hug and thanked her and told her that God willing we would come back. Fili and Nate waved their final goodbyes. I returned their waves. Cars and small tour buses were driving past the port gate, a sign the day was over.
Fiji is every bit the dream destination with sparkling waters and powdery white beaches.
The ships blew its horn and our ship lurched into the current. Other small boats slid fast by us in the still bright afternoon sunlight. From our distance I could see the locals still waving their hands. I didn't know what to expect in Lautoka this time, but I did find a new part of my life in Lautoka, and I know that I will return.
In the cool breeze, I said my prayers, one to my own mother, another to my special Fijian mother.
Bula Mama!
P.S. For independent tours in Lautoka, you may contact Ms. Fili Delana, Director of Domestic Tours and Travel Services in Fiji.
You may email her at : domestictravelservices@gmail.com
Comments
We were there too but not have the fortune like you to meet these delightful people. I like the lovely colorful photo of you and Mama. In Lautoka that day, we saw a parade and I almost joined them to march with the happy sounding band. Thank you for sharing. From Kim L., on Feb 15, 2014 at 09:57 p.m.